Rico de Souza says he bought his first madeirite surfboard in 1964, after saving money through raffles and selling bottles, newspapers, lead weights and other items. He purchased it at a sawmill in Arpoador, near the Francisco Otaviano workshop of Petit’s father.
In a recollection of his childhood, Souza describes dreaming of owning a board and imagining himself surfing. At the time, he says, surfing was little known in Brazil, there were no national publications devoted to the sport, and surfers were often viewed as long-haired idlers. His parents were also not enthusiastic about his interest, but he kept pursuing it.
The wooden board was difficult to use. Souza says it did not float well, so he had to hold it with one hand and paddle with the other to get into the sea. Surfers also used just one flipper, on the back leg, which could make it harder to stand up.
Souza surfed at Leblon’s Pontão with friends including Serginho, Ratinho do Leblon, Ricardo Faquir, Estrela, Carlos Mudinho and Geraldinho. He recalls that the sea conditions differed from today: pollution affected the water, and oil and tar from ships sometimes left beachgoers with black stains on their skin and feet.
Despite those challenges, Souza says Leblon became his first major surfing hub and the place where he began building his life in the sport. He describes the first board, bought through his own effort, as the beginning of that journey.
Sources: Globo Esporte.